Bedford Circular Walk
to do
Length |
25.6 kms, 16 miles with 135 metres ascent/descent |
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OS Maps |
Explorer 208, Landranger 153. The grid reference for Bedford station is TL041497. |
Toughness | 3 out of 10 |
Features |
An almost entirely flat walk which takes you North of Bedford, never far from the Great Ouse or the John Bunyan Trail. You follow the river out of Bedford, then pass through the interesting villages of Biddenham, Bromham and Stevington. This is followed by the best riverside section, leading to Pavenham. You visit the more modern developments of Oakley and Clapham, but the return to Bedford is largely through woods and parks and takes you past a wide selection of cafes in the pedestrianised town centre. Note that if you require a hot lunch you can either contact the Royal George at Stevington in advance, or continue to the Bedford Arms at Oakley (but this requires a tedious detour by road). |
Walk Options |
This walk doesn’t lend itself to short cuts as there is a river in the way. A short cut is described from Stevington to Clapham (reducing the distance by 5.9 kms or 3¾ miles), which starts well but once over the Great Ouse it is largely on road and it misses out the best parts of the main walk. Your best option would be to catch a bus from Oakley or Clapham (you can also catch a bus from Stevington or Pavenham, but again you would miss out on some of the best sections). Alternatively you could catch a 41 bus to Bromham and start the walk there. All buses below are provided by Stagecoach and run approximately hourly, ending between 6 and 7pm. Only the 50 runs on Sundays, with a reduced service. The 41 and 50 stop at the train station in Bedford; for the 25 and 51 you will have to follow the signs from the bus station. 25 Rushden to Bedford via Stevington or Pavenham and Clapham. 41 Bedford to Northampton via Bromham. 50 Kettering to Bedford via Oakley and Clapham. 51 Oakley to Bedford via Clapham. |
Travel |
Bedford is served by East Midlands Railway trains from St Pancras usually every 30 minutes, taking about 40 minutes. Thameslink trains from Brighton to Bedford stop at East Croydon, London Bridge, Blackfriars, City Thameslink, Farringdon and St Pancras. Journey times are typically 90 minutes from East Croydon and 60 minutes from St Pancras, so it is often worth changing at St Pancras. |
Lunch |
This is a problem as none of the pubs in Stevington or Pavenham serve food regularly.
The best location for a picnic is after you leave Stevington, either on a seat just before the church, or in the churchyard itself. |
Tea |
All these are directly on the route in Bedford, starting from 1.7 km before the end of the walk:
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Notes |
Places of interest on the route Bromham Bridge First mentioned in 1224 but extensively altered in 1813 and 1902, its 26 arches span the River Great Ouse. The river not only powered the mill machinery but was also full of fish and eels providing a substantial income for Bromham Mill. Bromham Mill Part of the present mill dates from the 17th century although a watermill has probably occupied the site since before the Domesday Survey in 1086. In its early years, the mill provided the foundation for a self-sufficient community. There was a blacksmith's shop next door to the mill and pigs were reared on apples from the orchard and sweepings of grain and flour from the floor. Traditionally, the millers made gear teeth out of apple wood, which was always available from the orchard. The present mill is an 18th or early 19th century rebuilding in brick, timber and stone on the site of earlier mills. From the 1930s, due to low water flow, an oil engine was needed to give power with electricity supplying the other machinery. The mill was restored in 1977-80. It is open to the public and continues to grind corn for flour. Much of the machinery, including the remaining water wheel is still visible inside the mill. Across the courtyard to the west stands the Millers House whilst there are fine weatherboarded barns to the north. The site also includes an art gallery, café, craft sales and shop. Stevington Stevington was a centre of non-conformist preaching in the 17th and 18th centuries: Baptist activities were allowed within 5 miles of Bedford and the village fell just inside the limit. The Gothic column of grey stone known as Stevington Cross, at the crossroads in the centre of Stevington, dates from mediaeval times. The village church of St Mary the Virgin (passed on the walk) lies down Church Road from the cross. Pavenham St Peter's Church dates from the 12th or 13th century with three phases of medieval architecture: Early English, Decorated and Perpendicular. Later additions and repairs have altered the building further. There are many other attractive stone buildings. Population is about 700. Bedford It is thought that Bedford takes its name from Beda, an obscure 8th century Saxon chief. It is also recorded that Offa, King of Mercia was buried at Bedford in 796. St. Paul's Square and the Church of St Paul’s are at the centre of Bedford, at the bridging point of the River Great Ouse. John Bunyan and John Wesley both preached at St Paul’s. Bedford Castle to the north east of St Paul’s Square was probably built following the Norman Conquest of 1066. |
Profile | |
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By Train |
Out (not a train station) Back (not a train station) |
By Car |
Start Map Directions |
Amazon | |
Help |
National Rail: 03457 48 49 50 • Traveline (bus times): 0871 200 22 33 (12p/min) • TFL (London) : 0343 222 1234 |
Version |
Apr-25 Mike Powell |
Copyright | © Saturday Walkers Club. All Rights Reserved. No commercial use. No copying. No derivatives. Free with attribution for one time non-commercial use only. www.walkingclub.org.uk/site/license.shtml |
Walk Directions
1 Bedford to Bromham Mill (6.9 kms, 4¼ miles)
- Bedford station has only one exit, which means that the first kilometre of the walk is unremittingly tedious! Leave the station following a covered walkway. In 70 metres take the zebra crossing and turn right on Ashburnham Road (A5141), heading towards a section of elevated road over the railway line. In 210 metres turn left on Midland Road by the Paddington pub, then in 50 metres cross the road at another zebra crossing and turn right on a cycle path which runs alongside the elevated road, with safety fences on both sides. In 150 metres you pass over the rail lines. In 70 metres you come off the bridge and continue ahead on Ford End Road. Cross over when you can, or at the zebra crossing in 270 metres. Ignore several roads on your left until you cross Raleigh Street in 180 metres.
- In another 35 metres take a tarmac path to the left (just before the impressive Sikh Gurdwara). As you approach a footbridge (over the River Great Ouse) in 300 metres, fork right on the second narrow tarmac path (opposite two bins), which in 80 metres joins the main riverside path (alternatively you could continue ahead to the ornate pedestrian bridge and turn right on the riverside path). The main flow is some way to your left, but the land in between is often flooded and later on you may have to walk on the raised grass bank to your right in places. In 120 metres you pass a sticker (on a metal post) for the North Bedfordshire Heritage Trail (NBHT). Go underneath power lines in 180 metres. In 400 metres, ignore a tarmac path to the right. After the housing ends, cross a drainage ditch on the path. The river starts turning left and in 300 metres (from the previous path), take another narrow tarmac path to the right, at a post with an NBHT sticker (330°, with the ditch on your right). You pass a small play area on the left, then a pond. Cross the estate road in 130 metres and continue ahead with the ditch still on your right. The tarmac ends in 110 metres.
- The NBHT continues ahead here, but for this walk turn left on a well-used grassy path at a Permissive Footpath marker on a post, with housing to your left and a line of pylons running parallel well to your right. In 360 metres you cross a public footpath, with a signpost just to your left. In 30 metres cross a drive leading to a corrugated barn to your right. In 100 metres the path turns to the right and in 90 metres you turn left on a wider path, now directly under the power lines. In 40 metres turn left on Carnoustie Drive (not named here) and in 80 metres right on Kingswood Way (a dual carriageway), crossing over at the traffic island. Turn right to cross the A6, to the left of the roundabout and take the path opposite, with a green Ouse Valley Way signpost and a blue cycle path sign. In 40 metres go through a gap to the right of a metal field gate.
- In 15 metres turn right by a blue cycle path sign, an information board and a seat, to follow the riverside path with a barbed wire fence on the right. Unfortunately you will have to put up with the noise of the traffic for over a kilometre. In 200 metres the path divides temporarily at another blue cycle path sign. The right hand option is more direct and less muddy. In 70 metres you pass a seat. The paths come back together in 60 metres and in 440 metres you ignore a path to the right by a yellow-topped pole (which leads to Biddenham). In 770 metres you pass under the A428. The path veers to the right, away from the river and the medieval bridge at Bromham comes in to view. In 300 metres you go through a kissing gate by an information panel on the Biddenham Heritage Trail and in 40 metres turn left on Bromham Road to cross the bridge (note that there is a bus stop to your right; if you have caught a 41 bus from Bedford, you may be starting the walk here). There is no pavement so watch for traffic in both directions, though there are regular ‘passing places’. You cross the Great Ouse in 180 metres, with a fine weir away to the right. On the far side of the bridge, take the first turning on your right in 20 metres in to the Bromham Mill complex, leaving the NBHT, but joining the John Bunyan Trail (JBT). The Swan pub is visible 130 metres further up the road on the left.
2 Bromham Mill to Stevington (4 kms, 2½ miles)
- Bromham Mill cafe is to the right, but for the walk keep to the left, passing public toilets and making for a double gate, which you go through in 50 metres (alternatively, if your inner child is calling you, try the Woodland Fairy Walk, which is just to the left and soon returns to the main route). Continue ahead on a wide grass path and in 70 metres turn left by a sign reading ‘beware trolls’ (sound advice which should be incorporated in the Country Code). In 60 metres pass a green sign for Bromham Mill and Art Gallery, go through a wooden gate and turn right. In 40 metres cross a footbridge over Bromham Brook and in 20 metres go through another wooden gate into Bromham Park. Follow the path straight ahead aiming for a partly visible thatched cottage (White Lodge) with a white wall (due North). In 50 metres you pass to the left of a tree, with a green ‘footpath only’ sign. St Owen’s Church is soon visible away to your right.
- In 250 metres turn left by the cottage and go over a cattle grid, then turn right along Village Road. There are more bus stops for number 41 and in 90 metres you pass the School (opposite you) and the Baptist Church (with a cafe). Cross over to the left hand side here at a pedestrian crossing. In 50 metres keep to the left of the village green. In 120 metres continue on Molliver's Lane, soon passing opposite a parade of shops. The road ends in 420 metres by an activity centre. Continue on a broad tarmac track along the left edge of a field. In 300 metres with a corrugated and brick barn ahead, turn half right (North-West) on grass, still following the grassy field margin, with extensive views in three directions. In 430 metres the path narrows at the corner of the field under power lines. At a junction of paths in 240 metres, continue with the path bearing slightly to the right (340°), as it crosses the field towards another (obscured) yellow topped post. In 180 metres you pass to the left of the post and a ruined brick building with a prominent chimney beyond a fence.
- You drop down to an old railway track at a 4 armed wooden signpost in 50 metres. Refer to the following section for the short cut from Stevington to Clapham, which crosses the railway track and continues ahead (so does the JBT), but for the main walk, in order to reduce the road walking ahead, turn left on the grassy railway track (signed Country Walk) with tall rough hedgerows to both sides. In 200 metres, a gap in the growth by a bench gives the first views of Stevington Windmill. At another 4 armed wooden signpost in 300 metres, take the path to the right, signed to Stevington Village 1¼ miles (surely an over-estimate). Soon you have better views of the windmill to your right. In 230 metres turn right at the corner of the field, over a plank bridge, continuing with a small brook to your left. In 120 metres ignore a footpath to your left. In 400 metres you have houses on both sides. In 80 metres, if you do not wish to visit Stevington, cross the road and refer to Section 3.
- Alternatively, for the Royal George or a 25 bus or to see Stevington Cross, turn left on the road, which is also the route of the JBT. The bus stop for Bedford is on the right before the Cross. In 200 metres you reach Stevington Cross at a crossroads. Turn left on Silver Street to reach the pub on your right in 30 metres. After lunch return to Stevington Cross and continue ahead (past the Red Lion). In 280 metres a path joins you from the right and you resume the main walk directions at the second paragraph of Section 3.
Short cut from Stevington to Clapham (3.3 kms, 2 miles)
- Continue ahead from the 4 armed wooden signpost (where the main route turns left along an old railway line), signed for Stevington. In 230 metres at a 3 armed wooden signpost, fork right, away from the windmill (the JBT turns left towards the windmill). In 100 metres turn left on a road. In 90 metres turn right at a public footpath sign and bus stop (for number 25). In 15 metres go through a metal gate and continue along the left side of a field on a wide grassy path. In 500 metres turn right in front of an angling clubhouse and continue with the Great Ouse close by on your left. In 220 metres go through a metal gate in to the next field. This is a lovely stretch of riverside path. In 390 metres you pass a weir channel on your left. In 150 metres go through a kissing gate and continue alongside the river.
- In 100 metres turn left on a road and in 70 metres cross the river by a stone bridge. On the far side go through a wooden gate on your right and turn left by an information board, through a recreation area with picnic tables, with the river now to your right. In 170 metres return to the road by a wooden gate. In 20 metres pass St Mary’s Church on your right.
- In 110 metres take the road to the right, Lovell Road (cross over for the pavement). In 140 metres you pass a bus stop for the 25, 50 and 51. In 170 metres cross back over at the zebra crossing, ignoring Station Road to the left. In 550 metres you pass under a railway bridge. In 70 metres the main route rejoins you by the path to the left of a mini-roundabout (keep right of the mini-roundabout and head for the bridge over the A6 Clapham Bypass). Resume the main walk where indicated in Section 5.
3 Stevington to Pavenham (3.1 kms, 2 miles)
- After crossing the road take the narrow enclosed path opposite (a signposted public footpath), with houses on your left. In 20 metres keep left on open grassland, with the brook to your left again. In 140 metres take the footbridge left over the brook and in 80 metres take another footbridge (right) over a probably dry brook. In 60 metres cross open grassland towards a black metal gate. In 60 metres turn right on Church Road (the route from the Royal George joins you here and you are also back on the JBT).
- Pass Manor Farm in 30 metres and in 25 metres pass a well-positioned seat with good views. In 55 metres keep to the right of St Mary the Virgin’s Church (usually open and worth a look), on a path with a stone wall to your left.
- Follow the path down the slope bearing left and keeping close to the church wall. In 50 metres the path passes “The Holy Well” (it is sure to be muddy here). In 80 metres go through a gate and continue ahead through several more kissing gates, with a hedge on the left and soon with fine views to your right, including glimpses of the Great Ouse, finally turning left in 670 metres when a wood is reached to your right (with bluebells in season). In 140 metres go through a metal gate and in 60 metres go over a plank bridge and through a metal gate, leaving the woods behind. Turn right in the next field, then go through a wooden gate by a field gate in 170 metres and another in 130 metres. Avoid straying to the right in the next field; instead you climb the bank ahead and pass a yellow topped post (possibly hidden by the clump of trees) in 60 metres. In 170 metres you are walking alongside the river again.
- In 110 metres go over a metal sheet bridge between kissing gates and enter a preserved marshland (an SSSI) where it is sure to be slippery. You climb to the top of the bank (probably the toughest ascent on the walk) and back in the open, you are rewarded with lovely views. Note that this is a sloping marsh, through which perennial seepages run down from the left to the river on the right, and it is also often churned by cattle. The easiest way to start with is high up, although some of the paths through the bushy growth en route can also be churned deeply. Following the first very muddy stretch though, this is a very enjoyable part of the river, with fine views ahead and across to the right. Go through a metal gate in 470 metres and in 60 metres ignore a metal gate and path to your left. In 150 metres go through a metal gate in to more woods. In 110 metres you have houses to the left and residential hedges on both sides. Go through a wooden gate in 80 metres. In 20 metres there is a signed footpath to the right, after the first house.
4 Pavenham to Oakley (3.2 kms, 2 miles)
- To continue the main walk, take the path to the right (leaving the JBT) and refer to the following paragraph, but if you wish to visit the Cock Inn for a drink or to see Pavenham ignore the path and continue up Mill Lane. In 120 metres turn right on the High Street. You pass a bus stop (for number 25) and in 50 metres the Cock Inn, which opens from 12 at weekends but only in the evenings during the week. From the pub continue along High Street. In 100 metres turn right by a footpath sign with JBT logo, opposite a red phone box. At the end of the path in 80 metres, turn left and follow the field edge left until reaching a kissing gate in 270 metres. The main route avoiding Pavenham joins you here. Ignore the following paragraph.
- For the main walk, in 50 metres keep to the right hand boundary in the first field. In 250 metres turn left at the corner of the field, now with a hedge to your right. In 170 metres turn right through a kissing gate; the route from Pavenham village and the JBT joins you again here.
- After the kissing gate, follow the left edge of the field to another gate in the corner in 250 metres. Aim for the far left corner of the next small field and cattle pens - to the right of a field gate, a dark topped corrugated barn and the main farm drive. Be warned that it can be treacherously muddy if the cows have done their stuff. In 70 metres (it may feel much longer) pass through a kissing gate and follow the wide grassy path to another gate, then continue between a hedge on the left and trees on the right. In 150 metres go through a metal gate to the right of a metal field gate and turn right along a narrow earthen path. In 130 metres turn left with the path, eventually giving way to open fields on the left.
- The path follows the field boundary right and left, twice, then in 450 metres runs close to the river again. In 570 metres you turn right to begin a tedious stretch of road walking with no continuous pavement. You cross several minor brick bridges, then Stafford Bridge over the Great Ouse in 530 metres, with views of a railway viaduct to the left (but keep your eyes on the road). There is a walkable margin from the last brick bridge before Stafford Bridge and after it there is a tarmac path on the right. In 180 metres you pass a sign for Oakley and in 110 metres you pass bus stops for numbers 25 and 51 (cross the road for buses to Bedford) and in 170 metres continue ahead at a crossroads on Station Road, with Oakley Memorial to your left, and a bus stop for numbers 25, 50 and 51 to your right.
- For the main walk continue ahead in the next section, but for the Bedford Arms turn right on High Street. The pub is reached on the left in 600 metres. Leaving the pub, retrace your steps but in 530 metres take Chapel Pound (signed as a public footpath) just after the Methodist Church on your right. A tarmac path then leads to Station Road in 170 metres. Turn right here to rejoin the main walk, a little further down from the memorial crossroads.
5 Oakley to Clapham (2.3 kms, 1½ miles)
- From the crossroads, with the Memorial on the left, cross the High Street and continue ahead along Station Road. Where convenient cross Station Road and continue (now with the road on the right) to a footpath sign on the left in 220 metres (or 90 metres from Chapel Pound), by Railway Cottages. Take this path, in 50 metres cross the bridge over the railway and in 40 metres go through a fence gap into a field. Turn right and continue along the grassy path, with a hedge and the railway line on the right. In 600 metres go through a gate in to the next field.
- Continue through a gate in 500 metres, turn right to cross the road then turn left towards the bridge over the A6 Clapham Bypass, also known as Paula Radcliffe Way, after the former marathon world record holder who was a long-standing member of Bedford and County AC (you would have thought they could have found a more runner friendly stretch of road). The short cut from Stevington to Clapham joins you here from the road to your right. In 30 metres cross a side road and in 40 metres pass a sign for Clapham. In 60 metres you cross the A6 and in 90 metres turn left to cross a road to the right of a mini-roundabout. In 25 metres pass a footpath signpost and in 15 metres pass by double metal gates and a yellow topped post. In 40 metres turn right on tarmac at a green public footpath sign with a JBT logo. In 40 metres turn left at a brick wall, which in 10 metres leads to a recreation ground. Turn right, keeping the fencing just to your right. In 75 metres you pass an information board for Clapham Parish. In 15 metres you pass a street light with a JBT logo and continue on tarmac. Cross The Glebe at a bend in the road and take the tarmac path to the left of Dennis Close. In 75 metres take the pedestrian crossing over Milton Road and turn right along the road. In 150 metres you pass a bus stop on the right hand side of the road for numbers 25, 50 and 51, any of which will take you to Bedford. In 70 metres you pass the Fox and Hounds opposite.
6 Clapham to Bedford (6.1 kms, 3¾ miles)
- In 180 metres cross Mount Pleasant Road and take the narrow tarmac path on the other side, between residential fences (you leave the JBT route marked on the map again here, but not the route marked on the ground). Continue ahead ignoring any roads. In 130 metres you have allotments on both sides, then in 90 metres a dog exercise field to the right. In another 70 metres you have a recreation ground on the right and in 190 metres cross Highbury Grove and take the public footpath ahead. In 50 metres go through a metal kissing gate and continue climbing gently along the right side of a field, with views of Clapham Church tower to your right.
- In 350 metres you come out on a road (The Baulk) at a staggered junction. Turn right and left on the private road Carriage Drive, at a green public footpath sign and JBT logo. In 230 metres, before barns on the right, leave the JBT again, going through a kissing gate on the right. Two paths are marked here; take the left hand one (130° at first), following the field edge to your left, with wide views across the valley to the Greensand ridge on your right. In 150 metres go over a stile and continue with a hedgerow to your left. In 170 metres go through a metal field gate and under electricity wires. In 200 metres go through a metal gate to the left of field gates (expect deep mud here – you may need to swing around on the gate). A spire is visible to the left, believed to be that of Clapham Park House. In 160 metres go through a kissing gate and continue with a water channel to your right.
- In 100 metres go through another kissing gate and turn right and gently downhill, back on the JBT with trees on both sides. In 170 metres you pass industrial units to the right. In 140 metres pass an information board for Park Wood and start to gently ascend. You go through a metal kissing gate and soon you have allotments to the left. In 300 metres you come out on an open grassy space. In 170 metres cross the road ahead (Brickhill Drive) and continue along a tarmac path down Cemetery Hill. In 130 metres you have the walls of Foster Hill Road cemetery on your left as you descend steeply towards the Ouse valley.
- In 320 metres turn left to enter Bedford Park in 20 metres, then turn right on tarmac, passing to the left of play equipment in 30 metres. Pass to the right of a mock Tudor sports pavilion in 80 metres and to the left of a swimming pool in 80 metres. Follow the path round to the left at the corner of the park and in 100 metres leave the park to the right by black iron gates (West Lodge). Cross Park Avenue ahead with care (there is a traffic island to the left) and walk along the left side of De Parys Avenue, named after the mysterious Robert De Parys, best described as the Robin Hood of Bedford! In 230 metres you pass the D’Parys pub and in 100 metres an entrance to Bedford School (founded in 1552). This is where Sir Alistair Cook, until recently England’s leading run scorer, learned his trade as batter and schoolboy chorister.
- In 240 metres St Peter's Church is on your left. In 90 metres, at the far end of St Peter's Green, the statue of John Bunyan is to your left. Cross St Peter’s Street at the traffic lights and continue on the High Street. There are several refreshment options here, including Creams Cafe, The Bear, Popins cafe, High Street Social and Real Coffee and Bedford Cat Cafe. In 150 metres turn right on the pedestrianised Silver Street by a modern sculpture. Along here are Sundaes Gelato, Maison Le Votre, Not Another Jungle and Costa. In 130 metres you pass to the right of a square and an old church building (should you wish to visit St Paul’s Church, detour to the left here on Harpur Street) and continue on Midland Road, passing another Costa Coffee along here. In 300 metres you cross River Street at the lights to Wetherspoons Pilgrim’s Progress, after passing Emerald Restaurant and Cafe, Bedford Cafe and Cafe Amore.
- Continue ahead, then in 160 metres take the third road on your right, Alexandra Road, continuing to the left as Woburn Road in 240 metres. You return to Ashburnham Road and take the zebra crossing (to the left) back to the railway station in 180 metres.