Chilham Circular Walk

A climb into the Kentish Downs and a descent to two historic houses.

History

This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.

Date Option Post # Weather
Sat, 21-Dec-24 Chilham Circular (again! After last outing scotched by Storm Darragh) 5 light winds and drips of rain
Sat, 07-Dec-24 Chilham Circular - including a quirky new lunch pub 2 wet
Sun, 08-Sep-24 Chilham Circular 2 brilliant sunshine blending into an afternoon of
Sun, 30-Sep-18 Kentish downland
Wed, 22-Nov-17 Chilham Circular - a climb into the Kentish Downs and a descent to two historic houses 12 sunny and breezy
Sun, 19-Jun-16 The lovely Kentish Downs 4 lovely day
Wed, 27-Apr-16 Midweek day walk Chilham Circular 5 sunshine and light showers
Wed, 20-Jan-16 Midweek day walk - A Chilly constitutional around Chilham 6 cold with sunny spells
Sat, 31-Jan-15 Chilham Circular Walk 16
Sun, 11-May-14 a Chilham Circular Walk 6
Sun, 02-Mar-14 Chilham Circular Walk 4
Sat, 10-Aug-13 Chilham Circular Walk 0
Sat, 16-Feb-13 Chilham Circular Walk 23
Sun, 30-Sep-12 a Chilham Circular Walk
Sat, 14-Apr-12 Chilham Circular Walk

Saturday 21-Dec-24

15.4km (9.6 miles) T=swc.138
9.34 train from Charing Cross (9.37 Waterloo East, 9.43 London Bridge) to Chilham, arriving 11.08
OR
10.04 Southeastern High Speed train from St Pancras to Ashford, arriving 10.42, changing there to the above train at 10.52.
For walk directions click here, for GPX click here, for a map of the route click here.
With apologies to the two people who did this walk during Storm Darragh two weeks ago, I have decided to give this walk another outing for those of us who were not so brave.
One reason is to revisit the reopened lunch pub, the Compasses in Sole Street, now operated in quirky style by the people behind the Timber Batts pub (formerly an alternative lunch pub option on the Wye Circular). (Just to illustrate its character, this is a pub that is staging a "wooden man burning" on Christmas Eve, according to its Facebook page… ) A menu of burgers (including vegan ones), pies and ribs is offered. It is only open for lunch at weekends.
The walk itself includes a gentle climb up onto the downs through field and wood in the morning, then a section of downland ridge in the afternoon, with fine views, before descending to Godmersham, where you can see the estate that is featured on the back of the £10 note (for its Jane Austen connections).
The last section into Chilham is on a quiet lane, perfectly doable in the dusk or dark if necessary. There is a new tea room in Chilham, the Church Mouse, but it shuts cruelly early at 4pm. However, the nearby White Horse pub will be open for drinks either hot or cold (and possibly desserts: its website is unclear about food times). Reports of a "cosy log fire" too from recent walkers.
Leave about 20 minutes to get from the village to Chilham station, since there is nowhere nice to wait if you miss the trains, which leave hourly at 15 past, taking 1hr 36 to Charing Cross. If you have paid the high speed supplement, you can save 33 minutes on the homeward journey by changing at Ashford (arrive 28 past, leave 40 past) for St Pancras
.
  • Sat, 21-Dec-24

    Rain, 40mph winds. Judging from the forecast I though this might be a repeat of Storm Darragh two weeks ago. But no, mostly it was light winds and drips of rain . A few gusts in exposed places.

    5 turned out for this walk, one on the direct train, four on the high speed. A fairly brisk pace was set for the initial climb. Conditions underfoot were not excessively muddy.

    Early on we encountered a large group from some other club. We worried they might be headed for the lunch pub and so phoned to book, but we needn’t have worried: we were actually the only customers (and never saw the other group again). The pub is cosy and full of interesting decoration, the staff were friendly and the menu short but interesting. Two niggles were that they appeared not to have the heating on and did not serve hot drinks. A log fire produced minimal warmth.

    Three ate, one sandwicher watched us eat (because there were no hot drinks), and one carried on without stopping. In the afternoon the four remaining carried on along the breezy downland section and down to Godmersham, the cue for some suitably Jane Austen-themed chat.

    There had been some concern about finishing the walk in daylight on the shortest day of the year, but in fact we got to Chilham by 3.40pm, in time to visit the Church Mouse tea room. This is basically the old Shelly’s under a new name, but no worse for that. They had an array of mouthwatering homemade cakes but none of us had any. Instead two teacakes (one vegan), one scone and a bewildering variety of teas.

    We had missed the 16.15 train by this point, so repaired to the White Horse for a drink. This had a big roaring fire and also seemed to have the heating on. We walked in the dark to the very busy 17.15 train (Where were they all coming from?) and three of us got an equally busy 12 car high speed back to Lovely St P.

Saturday 07-Dec-24

15.4km (9.6 miles) T=swc.138
9.34 train from Charing Cross (9.37 Waterloo East, 9.43 London Bridge) to Chilham, arriving 11.08
OR
10.04 Southeastern High Speed train from St Pancras to Ashford, arriving 10.42, changing there to the above train at 10.56.
For walk directions click here, for GPX click here, for a map of the route click here.
After a period of closure, the lunch pub on this walk, the Compasses in Sole Street, has been reopened by the people behind the Timber Batts pub (formerly an alternative lunch pub option on the Wye Circular). A menu of burgers (including vegan ones), pies and ribs is offered in a quirky atmosphere. It is only open for lunch at weekends, so I thought it might be fun to check it out.
The walk itself includes a gentle climb up onto the downs through field and wood in the morning, then a section of downland ridge in the afternoon, with fine views, before descending to Godmersham, where you can see the estate that is featured on the back of the £10 note (for its Jane Austen connections).
The last section into Chilham is on a quiet lane, perfectly doable in the dusk or dark if necessary. There is a new tea room in Chilham, the Church Mouse, but it shuts cruelly early at 4pm. However, the nearby White Horse pub will be open for drinks either hot or cold (and possibly desserts: its website is unclear about food times).
Leave about 20 minutes to get from the village to Chilham station, since there is nowhere nice to wait if you miss the trains, which leave hourly at 15 past, taking 1hr 36 to Charing Cross. If you have paid the high speed supplement, you can save 33 minutes on the homeward journey by changing at Ashford (arrive 28 past, leave 40 past) for St Pancras
.
  • Tue, 03-Dec-24

    In other Godmersham-related news, today (December 3) is the 48th anniversary of "Algie", Pink Floyd's giant inflatable pig, making a run for it from Battersea Power station and ending up in a farm in Godmersham.

    https://faroutmagazine.co.uk/pink-floyd-giant-pig-loose-over-london/

  • Tue, 03-Dec-24

    Ha! Well spotted!

  • Sat, 07-Dec-24

    Storm Darragh : I have reluctantly decided it is not worth the risk venturing out today. I will repost this walk soon.

  • Sat, 07-Dec-24

    Later: It is strikingly UN-windy here!! Grr! Wish I had gone...

  • Sat, 07-Dec-24

    2 walkers braved wet - and -windy weather on this intrepid expedition towards a very welcoming quirky country Compaases Pub where we had huge tasty meals by the open fire. The weather cleared up after 3pm giving us good views.. it was worth coming out for. We caught the 16.15pm train home.

Sunday 08-Sep-24

Sean
Extra Walk 138 – Chilham Circular

Length: 15.4 km (9.6 miles). Toughness: 4/10

09:34 Canterbury West train from Charing Cross (Waterloo East 09:37, London Bridge 09:43), arriving Chilham at 11:08. Or for a slightly more expensive but much quicker journey, the 10:04 Canterbury West train from St Pancras, changing at Ashford (arr 10:42, dep 10:56).

Trains back are hourly at xx:15 to Charing Cross. You can change at Ashford for St Pancras if you've got a ‘Plus High Speed’ ticket.

Great Stour It's been over 12 years since I last did this North Downs walk but my notes say there are good views throughout the day from the open downland, interspersed with woodland stretches for variety. There's also a pretty river (the Great Stour) and a couple of grand houses to admire, Godmersham Park and Chilham Castle.

This walk has had fewer postings than it deserves in recent years because of reports of an unsatisfactory lunch pub (the Compasses Inn, which eventually closed), followed by the closure of Shelly's Tea Room in Chilham. Happily the pub and tearoom have both been taken over and reopened, and I'm sure the walk author would be delighted to get some feedback on them.

The lunch pub has apparently become Timber Batts @ The Compasses (01227-531898) and the tea place is now the Church Mouse Tea Rooms (01227-730303). The tearoom closes at 4pm but Chilham also has a couple of pubs if you miss out and have time to kill before the hourly train. Allow at least 15 minutes to get from the village to the station.

You'll need to bring the directions from the L=swc.138 page.

  • Mon, 09-Sep-24

    From comments on the Chilham walk page:

    Colleen:2 people enjoyed a day of brilliant sunshine blending into an afternoon of heavy-rain-showers. Most importantly the pub is up and running again and most welcoming to walkers. Some challenges in the park due to what appears to be some temporary alternate footpath arrangements. Stunning views throughout the day.

    Claudia: In spite of the heavy rain in the afternoon, this was such a great walk for the day, feasible in rainy days. A point of interest being the quirky and welcoming pub at lunch, The Timber Batts Inn. The White Horse Inn in Chilham is also a great place to rest after the walk, spent there a couple of hours reading.

  • Mon, 09-Sep-24

    I was absolutely intending to go on this one, to give the walk directions a check and try out the new pub. But the forecast looked dreadful, with near constant heavy rain. This did not seem to mix well with doing walk checks (hard to write notes on paper in the wet!!), so I chickened.... I am glad the two of you enjoyed the walk and had a nice day despite the showers.

Sunday 30-Sep-18

Chris L
Chris L
Chilham Circular

Length: 15.4km (9.6 miles) Toughness: 5 out of 10

09:10 Ramsgate train from Charing Cross arriving Chilham at 10:44; or
09:37 Folkestone Central train from St Pancras International, changing at Ashford International (dep 10:32) on to the above train from Charing Cross.

Return trains are at xx:48, changing at Ashford International for St Pancras. If you can decide in advance which return train to get, the cheapest fare is to buy separate Advance tickets for the outward and return journeys. With a rail card, the total round trip cost is £18 from St Pancras and £14.10 from Charing Cross.

The walk climbs through downland, fields and woods in the morning, with panoramic views from a downland escarpment after lunch, before descending to pass two historic houses.

The only possible lunch pub for this walk is the award-winning gourmet pub The Compasses Inn (01227 700300) in Sole Street, four miles from the start. Past reports suggest that portions may be on the small side and service may be slow. It is essential to book in advance, not just on the day. This could be a good day to take a packed lunch; picnic spots are suggested in the walk directions.

You will need to download the Walk Directions.

T=swc.138

Wednesday 22-Nov-17

SWC 138 - Chilham Circular

Length: 15.6 km (9.7 miles)
Toughness: 3 out of 10

Either
London St Pancras: 10-08 hrs Margate service
Arrive Ashford International: 10-46 hrs
Leave Ashford International: 11-05 hrs Canterbury West service
Arrive Chilham: 11-17 hrs

Or
London Charing Cross: 09-40 hrs Dover Priory service
Arrive Ashford International: 11-00 hrs
Leave Ashford International: 11-05 hrs Canterbury West service, as above
Arrive Chilham: 11-17 hrs

Return: 14 mins past the hour, changing at Ashford International for St Pancras or Victoria

Today's walk takes us into the Kentish Downs, with the River Stour as our water feature for the day. The start shares the Book 1 Walk, Chilham to Canterbury before we join the Stour Valley Way , with a fine view of Chilham Castle below us.
Lunch is at the gourmet Compasses Inn, in Sole Street, Crundale. The food is pricey but usually excellent: a bit of a treat. The chef has won several awards in recent years. I have booked a table for four for 1 pm: I will 'phone actual numbers from Chilham station. But best bring a sandwich (NOT for eating on the pub's premises) just in case the pub cannot accommodate more of us: it will if it can but its owners have forewarned they tend to get booked up on Wednesday lunchtime.
After lunch (we need to be away circa 2-15 pm) we wend our way through woodland and through Godmersham Park back to Chilham, for tea at Shelly's Tea Room or a tincture at the White Horse pub.
Suitably refreshed at walk end, we have a short walk in the dark from Chilham Village to Chilham railway station for our train home.
T=swc.138
Walk Directions here: L=swc.138
  • Anonymous
    Wed, 22-Nov-17

    Enjoyed this walk today some lovely views and woods

    Kevin

  • Wed, 22-Nov-17

    12 on this walk, on a lovely sunny and breezy day. The wind rustling the remaining leaves sounded like the sea or a waterfall. There was a bit of autumn colour but it was going fast, I would say. Some beech leaves, lots of yellow field maple and hazel on the ground. Splashes of pink and gold and yellow in the hedgerows. It was also really very mild, much milder than it ought to be in mid November. And much drier underfoot: I finished with almost no mud on my boots.

    The morning was a gentle climb up grassy hillsides into remote wooded territory, with some backward views. Five of us were granted the favour of lunch at the much-garlanded pub, which despite having been thoroughly snooty about taking our booking (asking for a deposit yet) was not at all full (only two other diners I could see). We all agreed that being chosen best pub for food in the country plus their entry in the Guide Michelin has perhaps encouraged them to get a bit above their station.

    The food itself was nice enough. We all had the skate, which we embraced with varying degrees of enthusiasm. With a set price for two courses it was not that expensive, but as usual in these gourmet places portions could have been larger. Is there something inherent in good food that means you only get a small dollop of mashed potato? I was the only person who remarked on this, however.

    After lunch....ah, what felicity! Lovely golden light, lovely wind, lovely escarpment views. We got to Godmersham as the sun dipped below the hill and watched some poor sheep being forced to swim the Stour to get to new pasture. A nice walk along the lane in the gathering gloom into Chilham and a cosy tea at Shelly's when we got there. Then down in the dark, with a beautiful crescent moon hanging over Chilham Castle, to get the 5.14 train. (Some also got an earlier train, I guess, and some got lifts in cars).

  • Anonymous
    Thu, 23-Nov-17

    Many thanks to Marcus for another great day.

Sunday 19-Jun-16

Download walk 138 Chilham circular
Length 15.6km (9.6m); toughness 5/10- some climbs in the morning.
Trains:
You could catch the early 09.12 train from London Victoria (09.29 Bromley South) arriving at Chilham at 10.44 but the later option from London St Pancras International at 09.42 (Stratford International 09.48) arriving at Ashford International at 10.19 to then pick up the above Victoria train from Platform 5 at 10.32 may be your preferred option. However you will pay a small premium for the HS1 train but is well worth it in my view.
This is a lovely walk in the Kentish Downs which visits two historic houses. Just after lunch you visit the beautiful estate of Godersham Park which was often visited by Jane Austen whose brother owned the property.
Your only lunch pub option is the Compasses Inn (01227 700300) in Sole Street and they insist on advance booking irrespective of numbers so you MUST ring ahead when you arrive at Chilham station.

Further information about the walk can be found here. Click on the download walk pdf tab at the top of the page for full walk instructions.
  • Mon, 20-Jun-16

    I heard that the 9.12 train from Victoria was cancelled!. Did anyone manage to do this walk?

  • Hayley
    Mon, 20-Jun-16

    Yes four of us made it despite the train problems. A very pretty walk, although being Father's Day there was no chance of getting to eat in the lunchtime pub so we we ate in Chilham in The Woolpack at the end. Chilham very picturesque and well worth the visit. We managed to follow the instructions without going too far wrong. Lovely day.

  • Anonymous
    Mon, 20-Jun-16

    4 lovely day

Wednesday 27-Apr-16

Chilham Circular

A climb into the Kentish Downs and a descent to two historic houses

Book 3* Walk 138 *Online only

Length : 16 km or 10 miles

Toughness : 5 out of 10

Getting there : Catch the 10:08 am train from London St. Pancras International (10:15 am from Stratford International) to Chilham change at Ashford (platforms 5 to 6)
If you live near Bromley South Station, you may catch the direct 9:38 am train there and rendezvous with the Pancrastians as they board at Ashford

Meeting point : Chilham Station at 11:15

Tickets : Buy a cheap day return to Chilham

Brief Description

Back to Kent this week with this scenic walk on the Kentish Downs.
The only Lunch time Pub stop is the lovely family run Compasses Inn. I would suggest someone phones from before setting out from Chilham to check all is well for a lunchtime meal.

You may find full details of this walk here and a printable PDF here

Suggested Lunch stop

The Compasses Inn at Crundale t: 01227 700 300

Suggested Tea stops

Shelley's Tea Room t: 01227 730 303 (Open to 4:00 pm on weekdays)
The White Horse t: 01227 730 355 (Might be closed)

The Woolpack Inn t: 01227 730 351

I'd suggest you allow 15 minutes to get from the tea stop to the station.

Map

OS Explorer : 137

Return train times

Trains return from Chilham at 14 minutes past the hour. Change at Ashford for the High Speed train to Stratford and St. Pancras International ( Total journey time 1 hour 9 minutes ) or stay on the train to go to London Victoria ( Total journey time 1 hour 53 minutes)
  • Anonymous
    Mon, 25-Apr-16

    anyone planning to go on this walk? jfk

  • Anonymous
    Tue, 26-Apr-16

    Me! Just booked my ticket- sc

  • Anonymous
    Tue, 26-Apr-16

    Lovely. Hope to see you then.jfk

  • Marion
    Wed, 27-Apr-16

    Sorry but journey time for me would be 3 hours each way so will walk with Kingston ramblers today

  • Thu, 28-Apr-16

    5 sunshine and light showers

    Just five of us plus Dotti on the main walk, with a sixth doing a variation of the walk and meeting us, briefly, at the lunchtime pub.

    It was a typical April day of sunshine interspersed with light showers, but never heavy. The walk took us through some delightful countryside with lovely views all day in this quiet, unspoilt part of Kent, with good displays of bluebells in the woods and lots of Spring flowers.

    Arriving at the Compasses Inn we received a frosty, unfriendly reception initially - you should have booked - but the staff warmed to us as we sweet talked and smiled our way into the (empty) restaurant where three of us were served an excellent lunch.

    Having said hello to jfk who had set off from Wye, the five of us plus dog then embarked on the afternoon leg of the walk, equally nice with more lovely views. After some gentle hills and some quiet country lanes the route took us through Godmersham Park and into the picturesque and historic village of Chilham, where tea at Shellys is de rigueur - and highly recommended (but at weekends and Bank Holidays methinks it must be very,very busy).

    Our small group had a lovely day's walking and we enjoyed good banter, kind weather, excellent travel, glorious views, bluebells - and even water features, thanks to the River Stour.

    Not too bad a day, then.

  • Marion
    Fri, 29-Apr-16

    I cannot stress too much the need to check out pubs for lunch. This Compasses Inn is notorious and well known to Saturday Walkers for its inability to cope with any number of lunches as the kitchen is too small. Even when the pub is empty they make a huge fuss every time and woe betide you turn up early as we did on the Wye circular and they refused to even let us sit down at our booked table. The food IS excellent but you MUST BOOK and at the weekend many years ago when 25 of us turned up, the friendly publican took 4 of in his Rolls Royce to catch the group up on the Crundale Downs as it took so long to feed us and the early lunchers refused to wait. The current owners are not so accommodating. On my alternative walk my Michelin Star pub at Thursley near Witley (Edwin Lutyens village) had not ordered their calor gas in time and had no gas to cook with. Luckily 2 of us had soup and fresh bread which was delicious but we hadn't booked so didn't know of the problems.

Wednesday 20-Jan-16

Chilham Circular

A climb into the Kentish Downs and a descent to two historic houses

Book 3* Walk 138 *Online only

Length : 16 km or 10 miles

Toughness : 3 out of 10

Getting there : Catch the 10:08 am train from London St. Pancras International (10:15 am from Stratford International) to Chilham change at Ashford (platform 5 to 6)

Meeting point : Chilham Station at 11:15

Tickets : Buy a cheap day return to Chilham

Brief Description

With the slightly longer days, I thought this was a good time to post something a little bit more adventurous. I was also looking for a walk where the mud quotient might be more manageable. We'll see !
The only Lunch time Pub stop is the lovely family run Compasses Inn. As I understand it, there may have been some friction between some walkers and the owners in the past. So a little bit of tact and diplomacy may come in useful for folks to get fed. I would suggest someone phones from Chilham before the group sets out to check all is well for a lunchtime meal.

You may find full details of this walk here and a printable PDF here

It may be prudent to bring a torch to cover all eventualities.

Suggested Lunch stop

The Compasses Inn at Crundale t: 01227 700 300

Suggested Tea stops

Shelley's Tea Room t: 01227 730 303 (Open to 4:00 pm on weekdays)
The White Horse t: 01227 730 355 (Might be closed)

The Woolpack Inn t: 01227 730 351

I'd suggest you allow 15 minutes to get from the tea stop to the station.

Map

OS Explorer : 137

Return train times

Trains return from Chilham at 14 minutes past the hour. Change at Ashford for the High Speed train to Stratford and St. Pancras International ( Total journey time 1 hour 9 minutes ) or stay on the train to go to London Victoria ( Total journey time 1 hour 53 minutes)
  • Anonymous
    Mon, 18-Jan-16

    For less affluent walkers ie those taking the slow option there seems to be a train which goes in aroundabout way to chilham.

    It leaves Waterloo East at 9. 16

    jfk

  • Marion
    Tue, 19-Jan-16

    Sorry folks but Even with this faster train its 3 hours each way for me so Im out with the Ramblers if the minus 3 temps and fog have improved. Am still recovering from slipping over in the mud last week and gouging my hand and arm on barbed wire! Miraculously my knees were not affected which is a miracle in itself.

  • Anonymous
    Wed, 20-Jan-16

    6 plus 1 canine

    cold with sunny spells

    3 arrived by car, 3 by high speed train. Lovely Winter vistas. winding paths through woods and across fields which were not as muddy as on previous walks due to the colder temperatures having solidified the earth. Some cold mists hanging low on the hills just enhanced the views and the weak sunshine was warming. lovely lunch @ the Compasses Inn, they were awarded Good Food award last year. Impressive Chilham castle, less impressive present occupant. Hot drinks and cake at Shelley's tea room which appeared to be a popular place in the upmarket centre of Chilham. Nice walk in lovely company! thanks to AD