Length: 17.7km (11 miles)
Toughness: 3 out of 10
9.40 train from Charing Cross (9.43 Waterloo East, 9.49 London Bridge) to Deal, arriving 11.51
OR
10.12 Southeastern high speed train from St Pancras (10.19 Stratford International) to Ashford, arriving 10.50, to connect with the above train at 11.02. Note that this train goes to Margate and may be busy: I would advise boarding it as early as possible...
Buy a day return to Deal
Directions are not really necessary for this walk: just keep the sea on your left. Some guidance its useful at the start in Deal, however, and also in St Margaret's Bay and Dover. For this purpose,
walk directions are
here (start at paragraph 74 on page 8), the
GPX is
here and a
map of the route
here.
I normally regard the very start of June as the ideal time to do this walk, since this is when the shingle flowers on Kingsdown Beach are at their glorious best. But everything is a bit late this year due to the cold weather in May and June, so cross fingers....
I love doing this walk in reverse. You get the longer train ride and the otherwise rather anticlimactic flat bit along Deal Beach out of the way first, and the drama of the scenery grows throughout the walk. You get to the most popular section - the Dover cliffs - later in the day, when hopefully the crowds have gone home.
The refreshment options work better in this direction too. The Zetland Arms at Kingsdown, at the bottom of Deal Beach is a possible lunch stop, while you should get to St Margaret's Bay mid afternoon when The Coastguard pub is less busy (one can hope...). There are of course brilliant picnic places throughout, especially on the cliffs after Kingsdown. (Keep away from the crumbly cliff edges, though...)
Otherwise there is a tea kiosk on the beach, and a small tea room next to St Margaret's Bay Museum open till 4pm. The tea room at South Foreland Lighthouse seems to be closed, but there may also be a tea kiosk here open to 5pm, and the White Cliffs Visitor Centre near Dover has a cafe likewise open till 5pm.
Only the last short walk from the seafront to Dover station is a disappointment in this direction: it is a rather dispiriting half mile or so, but there it is.
If you want to try a brief dip in the sea (it will be brief: sea temperatures are creeping up but will only be 13 degrees at best...) Kingsdown Beach by the Zetland Arms is possible. There are strong lateral currents here, but you won't be going far out anyway. St Margaret's Bay may be a better idea, however. The bay here blocks the currents and by the time you get there the sun will have had longer to warm the sea surface. High tide is at 1pm, so there should be a good depth for swimming.
Warning: on the section between Kingsdown and South Foreland your phone will probably switch to a French network: most of us have free roaming, so this is not an issue from a financial point of view, but the time on your phone will be an hour later than UK time: don't get caught out and think it is later than it is - I have made this mistake in the past!
Trains back from Dover are are at 00 past to Charing Cross (1 hour 52 minutes) or 49 past to St Pancras (1hr 05 minutes). If you just miss the high speed train, you can take the Charing Cross one and change at Ashford (a 13 minute wait): this takes you to London in 1hr 21 minutes, but you will be connecting at Ashford with a Margate train, which may be crowded.
**** It would be very useful if you could pre-register for this walk for contact tracking purposes at www.lwug.co.uk: if not, please bring a piece of paper with your email written on it, which will be kept in an envelope and only used if a case of Covid arises on the walk. To let us know if a contract tracing requirement arises as a result of this walk, use covid@lwug.co.uk **** T=2.30