12 met outside Salisbury Station and after names, one group of 4 swiftly moved off for their own choice of walk options. We saw them again at Old Sarum, Stonehenge and (from the top of the bus in Amesbury) as they waved to ask the bus driver to wait for them – he didn’t. Hopefully, another bus came soon.

2 headed for the cathedral but were met again at the Upper Woodford pub, and two walked at their own pace but were seen in the pub in Lower Woodford.

Our group of four ignored the beauties of Salisbury and enjoyed the free views of Old Sarum and Stonehenge – though these are definitely worth walking there for. The countryside is mainly open, lots of pasture for sheep and very young lambs, cows and calves (not in the same field as the path) and in one place camels / dromedaries and alpacas. Lots of fields of winter or spring wheat, oil seed rape and a mystery crop – probably flax. Lots of bird song. Many trees are not yet fully in leaf but the little wood between Lower and Upper Woodford was full of May blossom.

We survived the A303 crossing as heavy east bound traffic meant that a car was prepared to slow down for us. Our group all had instructions and/or GPS but it has to be admitted that one of the group was familiar with the route so we didn’t always check the details. A thoroughly enjoyable walk.

Work is being done to the river bank on the way out of Salisbury so we were diverted on the main road for a while but the route was clear.

sunny cloudy cool .

10 assembled at the station exit in Salisbury, some wondering where their expected "walk leader" was...After a brief round of formalities, we set off on a perfect sunny spring day for our journey into history. During our spin through Salisbury, only one made the slight diversion to the cathedral and later caught us up at Old Sarum where we also bumped into number 11 who had taken an earlier train and enjoyed a morning coffee in Salisbury. We made the traditional circuit around the ramparts of Old Sarum to its cathedral's ruins then dropped down the "secret" passage to the outer ramparts and our onward journey....which took us through the magic door in the wall into the mystical world of camels, alpacas, lamas, donkeys, goats and ponies....a real menagerie.....of particular note was the rather content looking bactrian camel next to the path guarding the exit...On we traveled to the recommended lunch place which was busy with a sign warning of a 45 minute wait for food -- but this seems to have been a typo, as the food took about 45 seconds to appear...For the sake of SWC research (and to make up for not having any pub stops when this walk was last done in the height of covid June 2020), we stopped at the second pub for a mix of hot drinks, cold drinks, cakes and scones.....We concluded this pub would also make a very good recommended lunch stop and is located closer to the midway point of the walk....Had we not stopped at the first pub -- we would have arrived just before 2pm and were not walking particularly fast (so plenty of time to order during their lunch service which runs until 2.30 -- though they looked to still be serving food at 3pm)...it also stays open all afternoon and does not look very gastro with a nice variety of tasty looking meals with good portions...perhaps a pound or so more than the earlier pub -- but not overly pricey....Fully hydrated, we continued on to the ancient landscape of scattered tumuli...with the majestic stones themselves magically appearing in the distance at the crest of a small incline....On approaching the stones, some explored the permissive path which brings you slightly closer than the walk route and found in fact there is a gate a bit further on from the stones from where they could cut back to the route (though missing the walk down the Avenue -- they were about 100m parallel to it)....two continued the prehistoric journey to woodhenge while the remaining 5 (1 picnicker and 3 others had gone ahead) opted to return to present day Salisbury for a well earned drink and snack in a hostelry on the market square....the final 2 joined us here and we set off for the 8:26pm train, armed with a collection of supplies for an interesting and engaging "wine tasting session" -- a productive use of the train journey back to London....

A lovely day with four pubs and a need to balance life for the beer drinkers in SWC. Before we are seen as a Wino crowd.

The Wheatsheaf at Lower Woodford sold a good selection of Badger/Hall and Woodhouse beers and I enjoyed the bottled LEIP small batch brew which was an unfiltered New England IPA, hence the name. I enjoyed very much the coffee at The Bridge at Upper Woodford, which was immersion brewed so got nearly two cups out of. They had Doom Barrish stuff there and might have had an British owned beer on tap also, not sure.

Sadly, the Druids must have had all there pubs underground at Stonehenge, so not much apart from the greatness of walking there. You can pay £20 to get on a bus there, however miss out on so much.

Then back in Salisbury we tried the Haunch of Venison, dating from 1320. However, was not enough room for our crowd. So we went to the Ox Row Inn, a Fullers, on the market square. Where there were three ales, including HSB (Horndean Special Bitter), one of my absolute favourites. My mum used to feed me this as a child, as we lived a few miles from the Gales Brewery. How else could I love it so much. So I had three pints, including one on the train. And a lovely bottle of Betty Stoggs from Skinners, Truro. My mum bought me the tea shirt quite a while ago, no kidding.

Potential pinchpoints for path congestion: A - along the river in Salisbury, if Wiltshire folk have taken to shopping again in large numbers (I doubt it); B - the tracks leading up to Stonehenge by the A303, they could be full of druids and assorted other folk awaiting the solstice. In previous years Wiltshire police have done a good job in blocking those tracks to vehicles and avoiding bunch ups of campers etc. I trust they do the same even more so this year, and may even use the currently unused car park at Stonehenge for some of those folk. In the worst case, we'll have to make our way through the meadows to the side of the tracks.

14 off the train who - as requested - shuffled at distance into the space outside the station to form into subgroups. Later we were joined by another walker who had driven across from Sevenoaks to Amesbury and had taken the bus into S'bury, so 15. The train ahd been very unbusy (I was alone in my carriage, others reported up to 7 people in their carriage), the facemask wearing ratio amongst the public was pretty high but not quite 100%. No ticket check whatsoever, same as on all other journeys I have had since lockdown started...

The faster group (all long walk regulars) set off first and were only seen again when departing from the picnic meadow outside Upper Woodford that the slowest of the three groups arrived at at that same time. The riverside path in Salisbury was kind of busy but less than usual and everyone (incl. even the cyclists!) made efforts to give way, step aside and leave space where needed. Most of the other 5 in my subgroup had never been to Old Sarum or Stonehenge, never mind on this walk, and were not long walk regulars anyway, so we ambled at the sites, I gave them my spiel about this and that sight, we enjoyed the views and in the end finished more than an hour behind the other walkers. I think/hope they all enjoyed it, although one suffered blisters, and one other had problems with a thigh muscle, slowing her down a bit. The weather was warm and humid and we thus did take several breaks, both to admire the landscape and to catch some breath. The second pub en route in Upper Woodford was indeed selling drinks but we had to take them with us straightaway, no ambling please as they had been ticked off (in a more than page long letter) by Wiltshire CC about tolerating people consuming their drinks on the benches by the river. Cue 'leading' a walk group with a bottle of Ale in hand, very stylish!

Onto Stonehenge then. As expected, the tracks leading towards it were blocked off to vehicles (as far away as Lake Bottom) and apart from a group of about 10 who were camping in a field (and having a fire going on the parched meadow!) there were no hippies, no druids, no hangouts, just no one. 2 of us here took the shortcut, and the other 4 enjoyed the very special view of Stonehenge without tourists. 2 security guards in high viz jackets were ambling in the fenced area, and several families and local daytrippers were hanging around near the fence and that was it, so it was practically deserted. Result! Very special indeed. We studied the info panels and made our way, in glorious late afternoon sunshine, up to the New Kings Barrows and - with a last view back to the stones - beyond the ridge and back down across the Avon one last time to catch the 18.20 bus.

Only one outlet on the central square in Salisbury was selling wares, but they were quite useful for the occasion: Napolitanian pizze from a diverse menu and any Italian drink you can wish for (that's a Negroni for me, pleae). 19.26 train then, on which some of the faster walkers were encountered.

Lots of skylarks in the fields, rolling verdant green landscapes with swaying cereal fields or pretty meadows, plenty of wildflowers and 3 cyclists who were halfway into their Richmond - Stonehenge - Richmond daytrip (they had left at 5.30 in the morning and expected to be back by 1.00 in the morning on Sunday).

A jolly good day out in my book.

Excellent walk, great to get out in the countryside after months of lockdown. Trains and tube were very quiet so felt perfectly safe. Many thanks to Thomas for his descriptions of the sights we met on route and to my walking companions. Lovely to see Stonehenge without the masses. Lovely weather, great scenery, skylarks and wild flowers. Great day out.

Yes this was an excellent walk. Many thanks to Thomas for his explanations. We all enjoyed it and all got to see Stonehenge in the end, some at a slower pace than others, but we got there in the end! And with a little obstacle course in the dip below the lone stone (don't let the sheep out...) We didn't run into Sting, but it seems the landscape may have inspired this video, check out where it's filmed..: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iUpnv0gnuI

EB

Given the exciting new excavations near Durrington where archaeologists have discovered Britains largest prehistoric structure comprising vast pit shafts there looks to be the future potential for developing the end of this walk or as this would make a long walk even longer developing a new walk from Amesbury incorporating both Stonehenge and this new find. Sadly around 40% of a huge ring of shafts is lost because of residential developments. Article in on-line Guardian if you want to find out more.

What a great day out! Apart from a little congestion on narrow paths near Salisbury, it was no problem maintaining social distance. Fascinating walk, beautiful, gently-rolling countryside, no steep inclines (apart from Old Sarum)- as mentioned above, plenty of wild life and wild flowers in an ancient landscape. Wonderful for a first visit to see Stonehenge without people. Thanks to Thomas G for his informative and assured guidance and advice on avoiding blisters in the future (liner socks). Thoroughly enjoyed the company of my fellow walkers and hope we meet again sometime.

I was intending to do this walk but because of a timetabling hiccup over some work I'm having done I decided to do it on Thursday (21/6). Glorious day out with a lovely fresh breeze and the Wiltshire countryside looking more healthy than areas closer to London - more birds, more butterflies, more insects and more variety in flowers and plants- there's a fair number of poppies on the approach to Stonehenge.

Couple of points:

para 35-the short route from Eddies bench to the downhill path traversing the woods has become somewhat overgrown but the woodland path itself is fine. On the approach there is now a piggery on your right.

para 47: the wide byway has nnow been blocked off to traffic but I just walked round the fences and continued on so don't be put off by this. But good luck crossing the road!

Have a great day out.

11 walkers, incl. 1 first-timer, n=plus-one-other who had downloaded the file from our website, walked at similar pace, catching the same bus back, but wanted to walk by himself (so we're not counting him), in hot and sunny weather. 1 took a taxi to Old Sarum and picked up the walk from there, all else walked the full walk. Half ate at The Wheatsheaf, with the indoor transmission of the England game leaving plenty of outdoor tables to choose from. A fine walk as usual, in quiet rolling countryside, with the added bonus of two remarkable monuments. 17.30 bus back from Amesbury.

The cathedral has Evensong at 1730, so if sitting quietly and taking in the building with a service going on is enough, then that is free. You do not have to be at the start or stay to the end, but obviously you can't just wander about.

Intend going.

MARION said...

I should like to do the Salisbury walk on Saturday which you've posted. Pauline tells me that last year she arranged a mini bus for a group of SWC walkers to take them from Salisburystation to Old Sarum to reduce the length of walking. Any takers for viewing the cathedral first and then continuing by mini bus? Is this an option others would like as I need to shorten this walk if I come and would be happy to stay for dinner in Salusbury before taking the train home. Are you walk checking and therefore taking it at a slower pace. If so I might manage the distance!!! Marion X

Thursday, 16 June, 2016

In my experience, there's usually some people using that option, taxi or bus from town centre or station to Old Sarum.

Thanks in that case it seems its best to take the bus straightaway if you have a bus pass. A mini bus works out at £2 per head if sufficient numbers then a leisurely pace to the lunch stop and go to evensong for a free visit to the cathedral. Anyone up for supper?

South west trains Web site is probably not the most intuitive I've seen, but https://www.southwesttrains.co.uk/tickets-explained/best-value-tickets seems to make a good starting point to buy the £16 special offer. Be sure to ensure the "No upgrade" box is filled on the "Choose travel option" page. Unless you really want to upgrade to an Anytime Day Return for an extra £53.30 :-)

go to southwesttrains.co.uk, click on 'buy tickets', enter the details as required, click on any train times (they're all off-peak on saturdays), payment details. done. takes 30 seconds. get email confo within 5 seconds. print out or note down reference number, then pick tickets from machine in the morning.

I will aim to walk an extension at the end fron The Avenue to Woodhenge and Durrington Walls, just NE of Stonehenge, with the aim of taking notes for the website write-up. Will add a couple of km... Company welcome.

Thank you guys. Have just booked this ticket online for the first time and Yes all tickets cost £16 from wherever you travel from so no benefit for Boundary zone 6 card holders etc and you don't need to queue at Victoria if you can collect the ticket from your local train station. Needs a 2 hour gap after booking on line before accessing the machine with your receipt code as they won't accept emails and will charge the full fare! Easily forgotten if running late.

35 on this walk on a day of warm brightish cloud . With such a big group, fragmentation was inevitable and so this must inevitably be a partial and prejudiced account (other accounts welcome), but quite a few of us diverted for a peek at Salisbury cathedral grounds (mysteriously peppered with sculptures of rabbits), and of course all true-blooded Englishmen (not to say some of other sexes and nationalities) made the wonderful diversion up onto the flower-bedecked ramparts of Old Sarum.

All of this felt like a pretty good morning's work in itself, but there was then the small matter of another 12 miles of walk to do. This passed very pleasantly, with the walk poster's foresight in booking a table meaning 12 of us got lunch in the Lower (?) Woodford pub. Not alas in the garden - due to staff shortages - but food came quickly and with good portions, so all in all we were happy. Six to eight of us then had a drink in the Upper (?) Woodford pub by the river. This now does food all afternoon on Saturdays, though since the chef had gone home for lack of orders by the time we arrived at 3pm, this may not last long. It was a lovely place for "refreshies" (you know who you are, KG!) in any case.

Then the highlight of the walk - the long climb up onto the Stonehenge plateau when one feels one is going back on time to the Bronze Age - and the lowlight - the truly evil crossing of the relentless A303 (will the government EVER get round to diverting or burying it? They have been talking about it for 30 years). Near Stonehenge, New Agey types were skulking up side lanes in caravans in readiness for the solstice. The removal of the tea kiosk at Stonehenge is a bitter blow, but the erasing of the minor road that used to run past it and the big ugly car park is a revelation, totally transforming the site. I just loved the next bit, slowly walking away from Stonehenge across the immense grassland, a view one felt must have been just the same in the Stone Age.

Three (four?) then accompanied the walk poster in researching a further addition to the route taking in more Neolithic sites, while we ordinary mortals trudged on to Amesbury. Miraculously at this point the clouds cleared to full sunshine, which reigned for the rest of the day. We caught the 6.40pm bus to Salisbury, hooking up with others and later being joined by the extension crowd, and in all around a dozen of us had a nice al fresco dinner in a pub in the Market Square (especially nice for those of us who got the last remaining chickpea and lentil curries....).

The last train to London, the 9.26 was very crowded. C'mon,South West Trains: only THREE carriages? Ours was a "quiet carriage" which didn't stop us wassailing all the way back to The Smoke.

35 on this walk Cloudy but dry all day, A large turnout from a lot of regulars plus ladies from Metropolitan Walkers. Fast pace in the morning with no-one taking the bus or taxis. Old Sarum was confusing to the first group as no-be had been before and its worth noting more detail in the walk directions so that you know that you are only walking a quarter of the ramparts to find the steep slope downhill to rejoin the walk. English Heritage guided some of us in the wrong direction. (The best views are from a distance looking back or from the bus when travelling from Amesbury to Salisbury.)

12 for lunch at the first pub The Wheatsheaf with prompt service and good food enjoyed by all including 6 mini-desserts for a tenner which were shared. The second pub The Bridge Inn after 8 miles is definitely recommended as a gourmet option but the mains are all £15 and the chef goes home after 3pm if there is insufficient trade although the pub stays open all day. The setting by the river and garden look well worth a stop and we enjoyed tea on on the lawns plus free tap water served from a glass dispenser on the bar attractively flavoured with cucumber and watercress.

The Stonehenge Byway was closed to all traffic due to the wild camping from the Summer Solstice Brigade and the Herras fencing was difficult to get around as there was no allowance for pedestrians crossing the A303. Prickly bushes needed to be negotiated but the view of the Henge was a great reward without having to pay to go into the English Heritage enclosure.

The sight of the burial mounds and ancient excavations in the landscape was a good experience which can only be achieved on foot and with minimal signposting so these walk notes are invaluable. A few additions mainly of compass bearings would be a useful addition.

Sadly as the pub lunchers we did not make Evensong. This is a long walk but without any ascents or descents the distance was managed by all without any difficulty. The hard chalk ground would be very slippery in rain and exposure to lightning an issue if caught in a thunderstorm. Is there a bus on the A303 if one needed to cut the walk short?

All in all a very enjoyable day with great company and conversation in several groups keeping the numbers manageable and our group met up with others in the main square for drinks and supper before catching the crowded train home at 9.26.

Some photos of this outing on the Saturday Walkers Club Facebook page

I just thought I'd add a few notes in addition to Walker's and Marion's excellent prose.

It was an unexpected treat to see Sophie Ryder's exhibition in the grounds of Salisbury Cathedral and I'm sure I would have dallied longer if I wasn't walking so far.

Well next it was off to Old Sarum and a circuit of the ramparts before setting off northbound to the lunch stops of Lower and Upper Woodford.

In the afternoon section I had an interesting encounter with a farmer just after Springbottom Farm - a real character who told me of his theory that the area was under water in the past (he'd found sea shells to prove it) and the stones for the Henge had been floated on barges from Wales. Hmm.....

Yes, it would be nice to have a way of traversing the A303 - a footbridge at least!

As Marion notes, it looks like English Heritage had cordoned off part of the gravel byway as you approached the Henge. However there was a style to the left just after crossing the A303 and it looked like folks could walk parallel to the byway with another style immediately after the obstruction to rejoin.

I met up with a few walkers around the Henge and we all caught the 5:00 pmish X5 back to Salisbury to catch the 5:47 pm back to the Great Wen - a super day out

FYI - Value Taxis in Salisbury. They will take you to Old Sarum for about £10. [Tel:01722 50 50 50]. They have a Mini bus! Alternatively, you can buy a Plusbus on your Summer ProMo ticket for £2.70.

FYI the kitchen at the Black Horse Inn shuts at 1.45pm. The Bridge Inn is most definately NOT a gastro pub. LM.

15 on this walk, Warm and sunny. Group split up doing various options and detours. My first go at the short cut to Amesbury not a great success. See comments section for walk.