Kemble Circular via Thames Head and Cirencester Walk

27.8 km (17.3 mi), with 208m ascent/descent. For a shorter or a longer walk, see below Walk Options.

5 out of 10, with 6 hours walking time. For the whole outing, including trains, sights and meals, allow at least 9 ½ hours.

This Gloucestershire walk at the southern edge of the Cotswolds AONB explores the springs and wells forming the source of the River Thames and a longer stretch of the upper river, as well as some of the woods of the large Bathurst Estate and Cirencester Park and Town, the ‘Capital of the Cotswolds’.

After passing an assortment of springs and wells that constitute the start of the Thames and an Iron Age hillfort site right by the highest of the springs, you follow the disused Thames & Severn Canal to the Sapperton Canal Tunnel, before rising through Hailey Wood up to the watershed to the Severn Catchment Area and to Sapperton village, on the edge of the Golden Valley and with a splendid old church.
Climb over the highest point of the walk and enter the magnificent Cirencester Park, one of the greatest privately owned parks of the 18^th century, with its splendid vistas, romantic follies, statues and woods.
On into Cirencester for tea (or lunch on the short options of the route), once one of the most substantial cities of Roman-era Britain, now a bustling market own and considered the Capital of the Cotswolds, with its many independent shops, beautiful Georgian and Victorian buildings, alleyways and courtyards as well as some Roman ruins, most interestingly the Amphitheatre (at the time the second largest in Britain and now one of the best preserved). The short return to Kemble leads through quiet fields, along woods and through the picturesque village of Ewen, before another stretch along the Upper Thames.

Three principle shorter versions are described and buses add additional options to cut bits of the route.

Notes: The Upper Thames is a winterbourne river, only fed from aquifers and without tributaries in the area walked. In long dry periods it can be completely dry. Cirencester Park is open to the walking public daily 08.00-17.00 (sharp!), but may be closed on occasions. Check the estate’s website before doing this walk.

Dogs are not allowed in most of the Bathurst Estate, including most of Cirencester Park and the permissive path by College Farm, so only a modified version of the Short Walk is possible.

Several Bus Lines enable either shortcuts within the walk (to Cirencester, for example) or early finishes (from Cirencester or Ewen); the relevant bus stops are shown on the route map:
· Buses 54/54A/54X (Stroud - Cirencester) call at Sapperton (lunch stop on the main walk) and Coates (the Medium Walk routes through it). They run 6 buses Mon-Fri (3/4 of those through Coates) and 3 on Sat.
· Buses 51/51X (Cheltenham – Cirencester – Swindon) link Cirencester to Swindon Bus Station, close to the train station. They run about hourly Mon-Fri, hourly Sat and two-hourly Sun.
· Bus 882 (Gloucester – Cirencester – Tetbury) calls at Kemble Station and enables a finish in Cirencester or in Ewen. It runs 3 buses on Mon-Fri afternoons to Kemble, but only 1 on Sat - and early afternoon at that.

A Taxi from Cirencester to Kemble costs about £15.00 (01/2023 price).

A Flood Diversion may be necessary at Trewsbury Mead by the Thames Head, as part of the route can be under water after prolonged wet weather, when the Upper Thames is in flow.
An Out-and-Back to a large piece of Roman Town Wall in Cirencester’s Abbey Grounds adds 1.1 km.
A Medium Length Walk heads east at the Sapperton Canal Tunnel, cutting out Hailey Wood, Sapperton and about half of Cirencester Park (22.7 km/14.1 with 142m ascent/descent; 3/10 rating).
A Variation of the Medium Length Walk links to the Short and Ultra Short Walks.
A Short Walk heads east at the Trewsbury Camp Hillfort Site, cutting most of the area north of the Thames Head, i.e.: the Thames & Severn Canal, Hailey Wood, Sapperton and most of Cirencester Park (19.8 km/12.3 mi with 132 ascent/descent; 2/10 rating).
An Ultra Short Walk cuts out Cirencester Park and Town completely (12.4 km/7.7 mi with 59m ascent/ descent; 0/10 rating). Picnic lunch as long as The Wild Duck Inn is closed!
Near the end, a more direct route into Kemble village cuts the stretch up along the Thames and also goes right past The Tavern Inn, the only tea stop in the village. It only cuts 350m to the platform, but a touch more if intending to go to the pub. In any case, this may make sense when the river bed is dry.

OS Landranger Map: 163 (Cheltenham & Cirencester)
OS Explorer Map: 168 (Stroud, Tetbury & Malmsbury) and 169 (Cirencester & Swindon)

Kemble Station, map reference ST 984 975, is 133 km west north west of London, 109m above sea level and in Gloucestershire. It is on the Swindon to Gloucester and Cheltenham Spa Golden Valley line, with an hourly service from Paddington. Journey times are 71 to 75 minutes. On Sundays a change is required at Swindon.

Saturday Walkers’ Club: Take the train no later than 09.30 hours for the full walk.

The Thames Head Inn Tetbury Road, Kemble, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 6NZ (01285 770 259). Located 300m off route off the Trewsbury Mead Flood Diversion, very early into the walk. An Arkell’s of Swindon pub. A looped route off the flood diversion to the pub is shown on the route map. [The dangerous road walking can be avoided by following the flood diversion further along and reversing the loop from the pub where those routes meet.]
Tunnel House Inn Tarlton Road, Coates, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 6PW (01285 770 702). The Tunnel House is located 5.2 km into the Main and Medium Walks. A favourite haunt of walkers due to it being passed by four long-distance footpaths and of ‘Royals’, for being close to the Highgrove Estate, it has been closed for a couple of years. Rumours are though that the Bathurst Estate is planning the building of holiday chalets in the surrounding woods, which may prompt a re-opening.
The Bell at Sapperton Sapperton, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 6LE (01285 760 298). The Bell is located 9.1 km (5.7 mi) into the main walk. Booking recommended at weekends!

On the Medium and Short Walks, all Cirencester Tea Stops become Lunch Stops, from 13.1 km and 10.2 km into the walk respectively.

Beano in the Park Cecily Hill,Cirencester Park, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 2EF (01285 653 135). The Beano is a hot drinks and snack Airstream located near the town entrance in Cirencester Park, 17.5 km (10.9 mi) into the main walk.
Numerous Options in Cirencester (from 18.2 km/11.3 mi into the main walk). See the walk directions for more details.

The Wild Duck Inn Drakes Island, Ewen, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 6BY. Located 3.0 km from the end of the walk. Currently closed for a major refurbishment.
The Tavern Inn Kemble, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 6AX (01285 770 216). Located just past the station. An Arkell’s of Swindon pub.

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National Rail: 03457 48 49 50 • Traveline (bus times): 0871 200 22 33 (12p/min) • TFL (London) : 0343 222 1234

Apr-23 PeterB Thomas G